Congrats. The LSX 800 with Master Clear is about as good as it gets right now for a salt setup.
Looking at your source water, I would absolutely fill straight from the tap. No pre filter needed.
Here's why.
pH 7.85, a little high, but normal. You'll lower it during startup.
TA 164, definitely high. This is the number you'll spend the most time adjusting. I'd target 60 to 80 ppm for a salt tub.
Calcium 53 ppm is low, but your reported total hardness of 192 ppm is actually right in the sweet spot. I would verify with your own test kit before adding calcium. Don't blindly chase numbers from the municipal report.
TDS 329 ppm is very low and perfectly fine.
Chloramine 2.44 ppm is common city water. Once you get the tub heated, balanced, and the salt system running, it won't be an issue.
For pre filters, I generally don't see enough benefit for your water profile to justify the hassle or cost. If you were on well water with iron, manganese, sulfur, or extremely hard water, different story.
For test kits, buy the Taylor K 2006C.
Not the standard K 2006.
The "C" version simply gives you larger reagent bottles so you're not replacing them every few months.
That's the gold standard kit for chlorine spas.
You'll get: Free chlorine Combined chlorine pH TA CH CYA
Everything you actually need.
On enzymes, yes, I'm a fan.
The biggest benefit isn't reducing chlorine demand directly. It's reducing the amount of oils, lotions, sweat, and organics that the chlorine has to deal with.
That means: Cleaner water Less scum line Lower sanitizer demand Less shocking
For a Master Clear system running around 1 ppm free chlorine, enzymes make even more sense.
A lot of owners use Spa Marvel with good results. We've tested about 10 different enzyme sanitizers and Spa Marvel was Far and Away the best. HIt up Guen at [email protected] tub and she can get you set up with it. Or buy it here: https://hottubuniversity.myshopify.com/
The startup order I'd follow:
1. Fill the tub.
2. Heat the water.
3. Test and lower TA first.
4. Once TA is where you want it, adjust pH.
5. Verify calcium hardness before adding anything.
6. Add the Master Clear salt according to the startup instructions.
7. Install and activate the Smart Cell.
8. Let the system establish sanitizer production.
9. Confirm free chlorine with the Taylor kit before heavy use.
One thing I'd ignore is Master's published pH target of 7.0 to 7.2. That's lower than I like to run.
I generally prefer 7.4 to 7.6 once everything stabilizes. It's easier on equipment and feels better for most people.
Also remember that Master's salt system is not like most salt systems. Most salt is dumb timer chlorine, higher salt, yo yo chemistry. Master's is on demand, about 30 percent lower salt, holds roughly 1 ppm steady. That's why it works.